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So, you really want to buy a used RV.
Here are a few tips for the novice Rv’er.
Here is a list of checks and quick fixes RV techs use to make their job quick and easy.
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Basic Walk Around and Evaluation
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Basic Systems
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Getting it ready for the road
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Well, it is a camper, but can you camp in it?
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Basic walk around and evaluation
Let’s find out what you do have…
Divide and Conquer…
We’ll begin by reducing the project into it’s major components. I’ll begin with getting the
trailer down the road, then we’ll get into the operations of the RV itself.
Trailer Brakes and Safety Lights, Road Worthiness.
This is a good way to get started. #1- you have to have a couple of things. Make sure you
have a good hot battery, clean tight connections (12.5 volts is a good battery.) The brake
system is fairly easy to quick check. Raise one side of the trailer so the wheels can be spun,
pull the brake disconnect lanyard and try to spin a wheel. If the brake engages, you are good
to go (basically speaking. If the wheel doesn’t respond, we’ll need to go into some basic
troubleshooting.)
Repeat this check for all wheels.
If you have wheels brakes that do not respond, or cannot find the disconnect lanyard- you
have a problem. If you find that ;1) the trailer does not have a break away device and
lanyard-GET IT INSTALLED .Follow the simple wire up instructions included.2) If you find that
a wheel does not respond (and others do), we go to the trailer plug to begin with. The brake
magnets pull about 2 ½ amps each under load. If you have a single axle trailer, you should
read 5-7 amps at the plug. If a dual axle trailer, you should read 10-13 amp draw at the trailer
plug.
Here are some plug charts
This is a compiled list of the most uniform wiring diagrams that this industry
uses.
Plug
Chart
There are a few standards
Today that didn’t exist a few years ago.
Here are some tips;
Note- you are seeing the TRAILER END of the plugs in these photos. The locating key way is
indicated. Spin the wheel while you energize the circuit ( as if from the brake controller). Try
this again, except- instead of the jumper wire- pull the lanyard to energize the circuit.
(simulates the brake away safety being pulled from a disconnected coupler). In either case,
the spinning wheel will stop if there are no apparent problems.
These preceding tests are performed on the BATTERY, that is - the trailer is NOT plugged into
SHORE POWER.
There are a number of “easy to check” reasons the ( or individual) brakes or brake lights won’t
work. The first one is BAD GROUNDS, and bad connectors( “scotch loks” in particular) The
first places I start looking are; behind each wheel- where the magnet wires connect to the axle
harness , the connections between the brake-away device and the blue wires. Basically
speaking- the brake system is 12 volt, you should be able to use a needle style tester and
find 12 volt anywhere throughout the system with the brakes energized. Follow a
wire (keeping a good ground on the gator clip, and where you can’t probe for hot any longer, your bad
connectors real close. If you still can’t get a brake to hit, there is one more check before a
wheel HAS to come off. You need a meter for this- check the continuity of the magnet. On the
suspect wheel, disconnect one wire from the magnet to the harness and test the (half)
separated magnet. If there is NO continuity through the magnet, it is HIGHLY suspect.
What you know at this point is how healthy your brake system is. If the preceding information
leads you to the point that things don’t make sense( through your own
tinkering) That is exactly the time you really need qualified help.
Here is a note on bearings, shackle hardware and linkage, couplers and safety chains.
To round out the chassis check up, carefully block the wheel just barely off the ground ONE
AT A TIME. SAFETY FIRST!!!.
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Grab the wheel, one hand at 9o’clock, the other hand at 3 o’clock, and shake. If the tire
shake is almost imperceptible, you are probably OK. If the wheel shakes easily, things are
1) loose
2) probably dry
3) if the wheel comes off, the standard safety policy is to replace
the grease seals and the cotter keys with BRAND NEW.
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Check the wheel bearings by shaking the wheel with your hands in the 12 o’clock and 6 o’clock positions and the same thing applies.
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If you have passed these preceding tests in good manner, chances are likely you are good to
go. If , for ANY reason, you are not comfortable with what you have found ( like the old man
said )…” Get thee to a REAL TECH !!”…., or contact us.
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While you are in such close proximity to the suspension linkage, take a good look at the next
set of pictures. This trailer came in with 4 leaf springs on the passenger side, behind the axle-
snapped clean through. The obvious cause was not found by the first shop that this guy pulled
into after discovering his trailer pulled to one side. This gear was on a 12 year old trailer, 26’,
carefully loaded, and not “off-roaded. DEXTER makes HEAVY DUTY replacement linkage
parts. I highly recommend replacement with the heavy duty when ever parts replacement is
considered.
26'
- 12 year old trailer gear
2) Basic Integrity
Walk around your trailer objectively. If the drain system is held up with coat hangars,
compartments are taped shut, the doorknob has been augmented with a bungee cord, and the
first thing you did( when you walked up to your newest possible investment) was to chase out
a pot-bellied pig-leave the trailer where it is- there is enough wore out garbage on the roads
right now, and they are falling apart in traffic and getting folks hurt and messing up things in
traffic behind them. Be responsible, Be safe.
3) RV Subcomponent Operation
Here again, we will divide and conquer.
At this point , we have covered the easy half of the project. I want to begin the second half by
briefly testing the other circuits in your trailer.
What you see is what you
get. If you know what you are seeking,
click here to see a review of your self contained water
system. (updated 31 MAY 01) |
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