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Mr. Harris, I would like you to look at these
pictures to identify which power converter you do have. Chances are likely I can go straight to the correct one without having to order
one. Yours will be either Cor D. The book I got these
pictures from is last years. The prices will be slightly higher this year.
If you have C: the lower charging tray can replaced without rewiring the entire
fuse panel. If what you have is D, it is even easier to change out. There are a couple of
quick checks you can do before replacing parts.
The FIRST 2 things you have to have is1) verify 110 volt to the power panel, 2) a good
A great little tool to have in the 2nd kitchen drawer is the 110 volt polarity tester( some call
it a GFCI tester).
A note on batteries. What I mean by a good battery is one that reads 12.5
volts or so, specific gravity of about 1235 or above, a "brand new "battery has only a shelf
charge, and really needs a good charge overnight, 10-15 amps or so is good. The idea is
to " cover the bottom of the pan
Start out by checking power at the pedestal you are plugged into. Turn off all the breakers,
and then turn them all back on. Use the tester on the 110volt outlet commonly at the
breakers. Does the
tester indicate a problem- if yes- GET THEE TO A REAL
TECH. Have park maintenance deal with the supply. If the tester shows good, Plug in your unit, and go
to your outlet outside near the
entry door. Does the tester indicate a problem? If yes, go
inside your unit and search for the GFCI
On larger units, and those
using 50 amps, it is common to have 2 GFCI outlets. Plug the tester into the outlet, does the tester
problem (read the small print on the outlet) Push
the test/ reset buttons. They won't "pop", or "click" unless they are
receiving 110v. power. Does the tester indicate a
problem? if it does-you might have a bad GFCI circuit. Get Qualified help for
dealing with AC current. If the tester does not indicate a problem, we can move on.
Now you can go to the breaker panel. With the unit UNPLUGGED, and the battery
DISCONNECTED, make sure the screws on the fuse panel are tight. Plug it all back
in. Install your good hot battery, insuring all connectors are tight and
clean. On the battery end, a couple of tablespoonfuls of baking soda in a few cups of slightly warm water, will
neutralize acid at the terminals. I use a commercial product to kill the acid flaking, and
another to spray a red protective coating on the terminals and connectors.
Go to the breaker panel, and turn all the breakers off, then back on again. Look carefully,
there might be a GFCI breaker, Test and reset it like before.
Now we are going to check for output at the fuse panel. Set up a multimeter on DC and
set it up like
this (this is only 12 volt, if this bothers you "GET THEE TO A REAL TECH
With a multimeter set
up (ground to the metal cover screw) Positive probe, on
the positive battery lead( look at the diagram on the lid on the
converter. You should read about 13.5 volts. IF it does not, chances are real good that you have a
converter. Here is the hidden purpose of a good battery that is so important. The
battery actually acts as a
filter, helping the converter circuitry straighten out the
alternating current, allowing it to be used and regulated into 12 volts and general 15 amp,
20 amp, 30 amp, 35 amp, 40 amp, 50 and
higher. The converter shown is 45 total output amps., with only 3 amps dedicated to charging the battery.
The effect of poor maintenance is a shot charging system, and then it can get still more
expensive. The electronic brains that control you appliances are sensitive to AC current.
The little micro chips an the are built for DC. With out the clean DC
current, the effect can be disastrous to those microchips. What
you can do is set you multimeter to AC , and read AC voltage on the DC circuit. Just a touch is normal(1 volt or less). I had to rebuild
the charging system ( I found 7volts AC in the DC circuit) on a 98 Lance camper, installed
new lower tray, new furnace
board, a new refrigerator re-igniter circuit.
With 3 to 9 amps charging at ALL times, this keeps the battery slightly warm. This warm
for months and months and months at a time will dry out the battery, ruining it.
At this point, if you still don't have acceptable output, the information on the label located
converter lid.( Series#, model, options code, date
code, total amps, charging amps) will be needed to replace the charging tray. The actual working time to replace the
charging tray and perform a system check is 1 1/2 to 2 hrs. Depends on how much room
there is to move around. Sometimes the
locations of the converter panels is quite cramped.